The anti-climax following Ventoux involved a hop on regional trains to Basel, Switzerland. We knew we wouldn’t make our flight in Munich without it. So just as I had gotten accustomed to little bits of French, we were hit hard and fast with German, and our combined knowledge of that language amounted to nothing. We guessed at words, made some up, and missed a lot. But we transitioned well from having fresh crusty baguettes to having fresh chewy (pretzelly) buns.
For a couple days on EuroVelo 6 we crisscrossed the Rhine River between Switzerland and Germany.
Below: Sally approaches one of the many covered bridges between the two countries.
We were shooting for EuroVelo 6, the Rivers Route which goes from the Atlantic Coast in France to the Black Sea following rivers. We had been impressed with the mighty Rhône River in France as we followed the ViaRhona path north, and now we would experience its sister river, the Rhine which flows clear and fast north from the Alps.
Above: Sally takes a break at one of the many lavender fields along the route.
Below: Sally poses with a farmer at one of the many cherry stands we came across in this section of Germany.
We took our time meeting up with the Rivers Route, getting diverted further up the Rhine by Lake Constance, a huge lake touching Switzerland, Germany, and Austria, and quaint towns along the way: Stein am Rhine and Meersburg, to name a couple.
The bicycle culture is healthy in these parts as it was in eastern Spain and France. Bicycle lanes, bridges, streets, exit ramps, stoplights etc. all well-signed—how did the US get so far behind?? Town planning also allows for little pockets of dairy, beef or crops among residences. Active barns and their farm equipment can be near town center and neighbor retail stores.
Below: A typical apartment complex with a plethora of bikes outside. Something you don’t see in the states.
For a few days, we needed cooling swims, but then came another rainy spell. We knew not to complain (a heat wave would be many times worse) plus most of the rain came at night when it made music on the tent. But the Germans who count on the July sun were frustrated. The lake and rivers were already flood stage from earlier summer rains.
We finally caught EV6 when we went north to the Danube River. They say this section of the Rivers Route is the most cycled in the world. It now hosts a majority of motor cyclists (on e-bike)— I would guess 70% and growing (Germany has the infrastructure for them). We get excited when we see other old-school pedalers.
Above: A typical bikers camp. Many had pools and restaurants. Sally takes a dive into a swimming hole at a camp in Germany.
After camping with hundreds at large campgrounds that had their own stores and restaurants, our campground here was—surprise!— a cattle operation. The (one) toilet was in the barn. No sink. Still, we were happy to be there, tired and famished as we were. There was one other tent—a touring couple from Australia. (btw, we have yet to run into any other touring North Americans in our 2 months here).
This farm campground had no food, and niether did we. The farmers wife directed us down a path along the Danube river to a small town nearby with a restaurant at the Blanks brewery that offered traditional and regional fare. We sat outside over a river. Live accordion music drifted down from apartments adjacent. The place was busy. A friendly couple next to us, Andres and his wife helped translate the menu. Spatzle, savory strudel, a brat, fresh fish from the river below, kraut, German potato salad etc was successfully ordered with no English. It was a jolly crowd and, after telling them we were from Oregon, when something in our order came up, the patrons yelled “Oregon!” After dinner, Andres brought us two glasses of waldhimbeeregeist, their local liquor, which tasted like a cross between grapa and raspberry schnapps. Then we were given a brewery tour which was really to show the cave 3 flights of stairs below the restaurant and cold enough to store beer. A full night.
Below: Sally says goodbye to the town Mayor after our dinner at the Banks Brewery.
The wide and lovely rolling paths of EV 6 brought us to Ulm, Germany. This city has the tallest cathedral in the world that somehow survived the heavy allied bombing late in WW2. Einstein was born here.
The weeks-long DanubeFest was underway when we arrived in Ulm. We casually roamed the fair and city even as the wind whipping up black skies. When the downpour happened, we were riding out of the city. We took refuge under a bridge with others. One kind cyclist suggested we camp at the Rowing Club less than a mile upriver. That we did, and conveniently strolled back to the Fest when the rain let up.
Our trip is almost over! And so are the blogs. It’s been fun for John and me to collaborate and send them out knowing some of you would read and write back. There’s likely to be one final blog from Munich, but for now, know that after ~2,100 miles (3,380 k), and 9 weeks of moving, we are ready to be home!